Saturday, January 26, 2013

Johannesburburg, South Africa!


So I guess there is a moderate level of drinking that is ok to reach before a long red-eye flight from one continent to another, I mean really what could go wrong?  Well apparently a lot when you are enjoying your last night in Brasil and self-medicating for a long journey.  Sao Paulo to Johannesburg may have been the worst flight to date, by nobody’s fault but my own.  I sway in the airport for hours, pay $15 for terrible food since I chose to drink my dinner before departure, and once finally getting off the ground, I cannot fall asleep on the plane as all I can think about is the desert in my mouth without a flight attendant in sight to beg for water.  Hours and hours as I slowly sober up and chug my small shot-like glass of water in the morning.  I arrive early afternoon dazed, sleepless and hung over.  Never again, I hope.

My friend grabs me from the airport and we head straight to a year-end company party and then out to a lake for a weekend of camping.  I’m dull and sweaty to say the least but the crew of Zambians and South Africans take me in as we eat, drink and relax lakeside for a few days.

We finally return to the city three days after my arrival.  I am thrilled to have a day without an itinerary as my friend heads off to work.  I spend it soaking up the African sun on the patio in a nice gated community.  There is a pool and a guard and not a walking destination nearby except the local Porsche dealership on the corner.  I have nowhere to go and no way to get there.

The next day I am getting impatient to see Johannesburg.  There is more to see and experience of this city aside from these big walls surrounding us.  He goes to work and I head to the nice underground train put in place since the World Cup in 2010.  The city has improved because of this in many ways.  From the train, I wander to the nearby bus, and take a series of these out to the township of Soweto well known for being an important historical place in the anti-apartheid movement. 

First stop on Vilkazi Street is Nelson Mandela’s former house which is a must-see sight here.  This is basically my first day spending money so the currency exchange rate is lost to me.  I bring around 120 rand for the day’s activities but when it cost me around 40 on transportation one way, I realize I’m in trouble.  This museum alone costs 60 rand for entrance which is around $8US so yes I have less than $20 for a day sightseeing in the city.  I start talking with a couple just finishing the museum hoping they can clarify that it really isn’t that great and I can take a picture of the outside and call it good as I joke about my poor planning.  The Nigerian couple takes pity and offers me 100 rand for my museum viewing for the day.  I politely decline many times, embarrassed until finally their persistence wins.  Oh wow, the girl who seeks out donations at museums!  But it really was so great to see along with the Hector Pieterson Museum and memorial.  Thanks to those people! I will pay it forwardJ

After seeing the house and getting a refresher on the history of the amazing Mr. Mandela, I wander up the street and a local starts talking with me.  I have my guard up as I always do especially in new places. Does he want money or a date?  Turns out neither and I have a new friend and free local tour guide!  We wander the town for hours as the African sun takes its wrath out on my skin.  I am able to see so much and learn about so much through this guy, even going through the slums which is always at the top of the list visiting anywhere.  One long day with almost no money and I have a new friend and a great experience.  We make plans to meet up the following day and see the central part of Joburg.

Well I still don’t know this guy’s name.  He said it once and I didn’t understand it, but by now it’s too late to ask again and ‘hey you’ will have to work.  We walk for the entire day from downtown to historical centers and museums, over the Mandela Bridge and then a 3 hour trek to a natural reserve park.  Amazing day and I am exhausted again.  I like this city more and more as I discover it through the eyes of a local.  I take in one more day of relaxing and on my final day, I ambitiously plan to see three museums.  I make it to two, ending at a brewery and call it a success.  

My bags are packed and I am ready to get to Uganda. Two short flights and a late night arrival away from seeing some of my favorite people in the world!

 

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