Orlando and our trip to the jungle!

Well it has been weeks since, but it is still so fresh in my mind. Definitely the most amazing 2 days of my month in Peru thus far.  Andy was itching to get out of the cities and into the jungle. Dylan had heard of a man, Orlando, who took care of wild pigs and other endangered animals and was like a kid waiting for DisneyLand.  I was just along for the ride. Nature? sure. Jungle? sure.  We meet up with a friend of Orlando's to plan out the trip and discuss details.  13 river crossings, large cats and other crazy wild animals.  "Ummm, maybe I will sit this one out guys."  A few minutes of convincing and we are packing our bags for the early morning departure.

We get picked up by a 3-wheeled mototaxi earlier than I have been up in weeks.  A rough ride and a couple pushes later we make it to the trailhead and meet our guide Fernando.  He is a small Peruvian man with an empty looking backpack that couldnt be carrying more than an avocado and some fishing line.  Geared with tall rubber boots and a machete, I'm confident this guy knows his shit.  20 minutes in, we have crossed the river 4 or 5 times and I am pouring with sweat.  Not the most intense hike, but the humidity was not exaggerated.  I still have yet to see a bead of sweat on Fernando and it appears as though I have fallen in the river.  Onward we trek and our fearless guide holds my hand over each rock jumping river crossing.  Finally, the last river crossing and the smell of smoke ahead. There is life out here! 

Grass thatched roofs and a fence surround a small compound next to the riverbed.  We are greeted by a viscous looking monkey (mono en espanol) and the man we had heard so much about.  Orlando is middle aged, small statured and friendly.  He gives us the story on the place and we are introduced so the four monos hopping around.  They were all previously in captivity or very ill and all violent.  Some he has had for years and one for only a few days.  We warm up to a couple quickly and learn to stay clear of Pablo, the most aggressive and mean of the crew.  Luna is the wild pig that acts as the dog roaming and sniffing for food.  Two colorful birds (pajaros) watch quietly from their shaded cage.  Orlando is busy cooking lunch for the animals and pigs that we have yet to see as his english slowly turns to all spanish. For the first time, I am able to understand a good amount of what is being said to me in all spanish.  This guy is a miracle worker in so many ways!

Lunch time for the pigs! Usually very aggressive and dangerous animals, Orlando cautions to let him go first and keep a bit of a distance.  He calls them out by name, 17 in all with two baby chonchos as well.  We cross the river and watch them feast from there beloved master and lifesaver.  The jungle here has be so poached and large companies constantly threaten moving in to tap some of the amazing resources.  The pigs scrape every last grain of rice and head back into the trees.  Fernando guides us to the first waterfall, then to the top of that one for the second massive fall.  We wash the sweat and dirt and sit silently taking it all in.  I have seen my share of waterfalls and trees in Oregon, but this was incomparable. There was noone else around and we were privileged to have this place to call our own for that moment.  As Orlando always said, "La selva y los animales no son mios, son tuyos."  The jungle and the animals are not mine, the are all of yours.  It really put into perspective how humble and hospitable he was to us all. So willing to share what he spends his life doing.

We cook an amazing meal of ramen, rice, veggies and sauces.  Orlando always makes sure the animals are well fed before he has a bite of anything and goes so far as to sautee onions in their rice with seasonings, but no salt for Luna; "he does not like!"  Fernando goes home for the day, back on the trail we entered.  It took us about 2 sweaty hours at what I felt was a moderate to rapid pace.  It takes him about 45 minutes solo.  I picture him swinging through trees, sprinting over rocks and macheteing some plants for dinner along the way. Hours of talking with Orlando come to an end as we must leave before the night time animals come out to play.  We walk towards where we will sleep for the night, when O stops and warns to not cross this after dark for any reason.  Note taken.  We are led up to a nice cabin. Andy ties his hammock on the deck and I call a spot on the floor.  The bugs have eaten us for breakfast, lunch and dinner and are now greedily getting some dessert in before bedtime.  The sounds outside get exponentially louder by the minute. Bugs and creatures hunting, roaming or sleeping. Its terrifying and soothing.

We wake early, well 4am early for Dylan, and head back down to Orlando's place but not before being greeted by the pigs who grunted and growled at us for a seriously blood pumping few seconds.  Dylan had left earlier and experienced the same thing. Andy was in front of me and later said that he had one backpack strap off and was ready to run....aka run and leave me for the pigs to feast on. Well we slowly crept past and and made it "home" to Orlandos.  We are greeted by the monos who now cling and nestle to us.  I dont consider myself a serious animal lover, but I may have fallen for these guys.  I hop in the river and take a much needed ridiculously refreshing bath in the clear, cool water.  Pretty sure I could get used to doing this every day. I could learn spanish from Orlando and get my daily hugs from the monkeys.  Derailing my plans to stay a while floated around in my head but after another amazing meal, we pack our bags and head back on the trail.  I feel like I am leaving a fantasy land, untouched by the commericalism and greed that we are faced with every day.  Those monkeys and pigs dont care what clothes I wear and that river is not going to send me a water bill for the best bath ever.

That being said, Orlando is an amazing man doing amazing things and would love nothing more than to share the jungle and these animals with others and also help save more endangered animals.  If you would like to volunteer your time or donate money, I have contact info.  The website is currently being constructed but the blog is http://cereliasperu.blogspot.com/ Check it out!!

So yea, about that bus ride....

Well 10 days into my adventure and my first post attempt.  Internet is scarce and we have been on the move a lot. Arrived in Tarapoto, Peru this morning after an intense and terrifying 15 hour bus ride through a sleepless night. Paved roads come and go as the driver passes blindly through winding roads kind of like a cheap and very long theme park ride.  I heard about these crazy bus rides but really had no idea what I was in for. So now we are in the foothills of the Amazon. It is blazing hot but cars are few and drivers seem to obey traffic laws somewhat in comparison to the cities thus far.  Honking and yelling are not compulsory to being behind the wheel and being a pedestrian is a less extreme sport.

Currently, the travel crew is my good friend Dylan from the states and Andy, a Danish guy that joined us a few cities back.  We will all be heading in different directions soon as Andy will take a boat north into the jungle and Dylan and I will bus back to Lima where he will catch his flight home in a week.

I am still struggling to comprehend exactly what I have gotten myself into.  I casually shrugged off comments that I was crazy for doing this, but now realizing maybe they weren´t so crazy for saying this.  I have so much travel ahead of me so for now I will just take it one day at a time.

I started in Lima for a day before departing for Huaraz, an amazing city where we joined in on celebrating Peru´s independance with the locals.  Dylan got a treasured picture with alpacas and I tried ceviche and realized how poor my spanish really is.  A few days later we are off to the beach of Huanchaco, but not before a painfully memorable bus ride.  The route should take around 8-10 hours but we finally arrive 18 hours later after spending hours parked in the desert with all the other busses and travelers, un-airconditioned and barely ventilated, with no water or food as patience ran thin and smiles were scarce.  After finally arriving, we were able to decompress with some food and watching the sunset on the beach with some locals and plenty of rum.

One recovery day and we are back on the road to Chiclayo with an addition to the crew, Ricky who is one of our local rum drinking friends.  It is a lot less stressful having a Peruvian to guide us along and I must say I am enjoying having traveling partners.  We arrive in Chiclayo and race to the Mercado Modelo, by far the largest market I have ever seen.  You can get everything you may possibly want here and spend an entire day finding your way around.  We are also able to meet up with Molly, who has lived and worked in Chiclayo for three years and is originally from the states that we met in Huaraz.  It is always so nice to get the local feel of a place versus the lost tourist experience.  On the bus again, unaware of the mental instability of our driver and insane ride ahead!

All in all, amazing thus far.  I am in the groove of packing and unpacking regularly, showering much less frequently and attempting to find vegetarian food in a meat loving country. Hope to have some pictures to share soon, but until then please settle for this post as I sweat a few kilos off in an internet cafe to bring this to you!