Well I have taken a big hiatus again, but here I begin another attempt. Got an amazing deal on a bus ride to Puno. 20 soles (approx $7) for a 7-8 hour trip. Almost half the price of the other companies and I am thrilled. First, I sit on a cement platform with all locals, some appear to be relocating permanently, others bringing the month's crop share with them. The only gringa leaving one touristy town and going to another. Then the bus chugs and screaches in, smoking and rusted. This looks nothing like the shiny bus in the picture they advertise. Inside is even worse. Im not a germy person at all but I make all attempts to ensure my skin does not touch the multicolored stained seat. Breathing from my mouth helps me adjust to the smell as its clear this is a bus they no longer cleaned. I drop my only knife on the ground and count it as a loss. A man stands up and begins to speak for the next 2 hours, takes a break and continues again. He would be shut up in 1 minute on a bus in the states but no one seems to mind. I put on my ipod and zone him out. We continue to stop at every small town we pass on any street corner where someone may want a lift. I panic that my bag stored below will be gone at every stop and vow to not 'scum it' again with buses. I arrive late to a dodgy looking hostel and endless knocking and doorbell rings finally awaken the receptionist. Its not so pleasant inside either but I am so happy to have a bed and my bags. I groggily book a boat ride for the morning.
Lake Titicaca- remember it from geography class but I think mostly because of the name that started a wave of giggles in a middle school crowd. Turns out its a huge lake bordering Peru and Bolivia and its pretty damn amazing. I meet Eduar and his friend on the boat and they liven things up with pictures every minute or two, beers in the morning and yelling "Venezuela" (their country) from the top of the boat. We head out to the floating islands created by tying reeds together. About 5 familes can live on one of these and they last about 30 years before a new one is made. Their livelihood is fishing which they trade in surrounding towns. A few hours on the islands and we head back to the ugly, cement pit of Puno. Grab my bags and off to the bus station headed for Arequipa.Arequipa is huge. The bus drives endlessly on highways and streets before arriving in the station. The taxi driver does the same. I arrive at a hostel late again and find they are booked. Thats what I get for always risking it and not making a reservation. An hour of looking and I find a place and bed. My roommate and I head to the market in the morning and she gives me a tour of the town as she has been here awhile. I head back to my first hostel of choice and check out info for tours on the well known Colca Canyon. It is the second largest canyon in the world, next to another canyon in the south of Peru, yep no Grand Canyon. I meet Sean and we sign up for a 3 day trek. After a day of doing nothing, we are off for some hiking. Physical activity is still lacking and this is something you can't really appreciate as much from a bus window. Our hiking crew consists of the nations of Peru, New Zealand, England, Spain and the US(times 2). We stop and see the gigantic condors flying through the canyon for an hour or so before they move on and we are forced to continue our mission. Sean and 5 ladies hike down the canyon, sweating and chatting. Seeing where we came from and how far we descended is pretty amazing, but not as great as dipping our hot, blistered feet in the stream below. We arrive at our bungalows, eat a good meal and share a bottle of Pisco and some card games.
The next day we can barely limp out of bed. Some yoga and an amazing breakfast and we hit the trail again. Today we hike to the bottom of the canyon to "the oasis" which is a green and blue heaven in the dusty and dry canyon. There are beds, food and pools waiting for us and motivation makes the hike go much easier. An intense and neverending match of volleyball ensues at our camp as Peru vs. el mundo (the world). It is a popular game in Peru and we have some competition. Beer is at stake and we find all the energy we have left to defend the world! No explanation as to how, but noone got beers.
We have been warned that day 3 is the rough one. Hiking at 5am straight up the canyon as we hope to avoid too much of the strong sun. Thoughts of dying on the side of the canyon don't escape me as we sweat and struggle for breath up the hill. The victory sit at the top was priceless and our crew is now a family.
Back to Arequipa and planning out the next adventure. Begona from Spain and I have decided to go to Ica and Huacahina for some sandboarding and relaxation at another little oasis. In the endless sand dunes of this part of Peru, there is the little gem of Huacachina. In the center is a huge pool of water surrounded by palm trees. We venture out on a big dune buggy and our driver sets us up on various hills, we strap in our boards and go down. The hills get longer and steeper but the sand prevents you from getting an excessive amount of speed, usually. Well I'm pretty comfortable on the snowboard and hills and get a little cocky after a few runs. Logically, I get as much speed as I can before attempting to carve around sharply. Well the sand isn't quite as forgiving and I sharply cartwheel down the hill. A little whiplash, minor head trauma, major embarassment but the worst part is being completely covered in sand. It is covering every inch of my body, hair, ears, nose. Had to go fast, didn't I? Well another good-bye and I am on my way back to Lima.
Oh Lima, didn't really miss you but here I am again. I finally retreive my passport from the embassy with a beautiful Brazilian visa inside! Got to spend a day with Andy before he flew back to Denmark, said good-bye to my favorite Limonians (just made that one up and pretty sure its not the correct term, but my Lima friends non-the-less) and I am onto Trujillo. Two days on the coastal town of Trujillo and the beach of the nearby Huanchaco to visit some more great Peruvian friends that I made along the trip.
Overall, I feel like I was able to see a lot of Peru. 6 weeks, easily over 100 hours of bus time logged, endless miles, so many new friends and adventures but I must be on my way. Ecuador and four other countries require my attention as well. Viva la Peru!!!
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